”Well, if it must be Italy again for the summer vacation at least let it be something really great!” I found myself thinking when my plans of going to Portugal shattered. Don`t get me wrong, there are many beautiful places to see in Italy, but once in a while you could really use a change of scenery. Since that was not the case and when Italy was yet again the only option, I knew exactly what I wanted to see: the exclusive and oh so well praised Portofino. I must admit I was a little scared that the reality would be a pale reflection of all the myths surrounding one of the most well-known resorts on Earth. But with Portofino this is not the case: it`s going to be what you expected. And a lot more.
How to get there
I was always under the impression that Portofino is difficult to reach – a little piece of heaven for the rich and famous. But when your aim lower than checking in into a hotel or shopping in designers` boutiques, Portofino can be a destination for a vacation on a budget.
As anywhere else, you`ll find out from the locals the best way to get around. Our host in Ruta di Camogli (a small village scattered on the hills overseeing Paradise Gulf) recommended hiking. The walk across Portofino Natural Park takes around 1.5 hours and it`s totally worth it! Make sure you pick the trail that passes through Olmi, a picturesque village surrounded by olive tree plantations.
The trails are well marked, there are lots of water springs and enough tourists to feel safe. Since there is nothing to be worried about, you can comfortably savor the spectacular view that only the combination sea-mountain can offer and breathe in the fragrant air.
And in no time you have arrived in Portofino.
What to see
As each and every guide suggests: everything! But before getting to the marina, stop for lunch in one of the many taverns on the tiny winding streets. My absolute favourite was the L`isolotto, so good that I decided to return again in Portofino for lunch after two days!
After regaining strength, it`s time to move on.
First stop: the marina. Here you can spend hours watching the boats, from the little fishing ones to the luxurious yachts.
The Brown Castle – up on the hill, offers a great view over the gulf and the marina
The old lighthouse – with a lovely bar and a priceless watching spot
Saint George Church – offers the best view over the marina
The beach – a rocky small beach somewhere under the Brown Castle. Very Italian!
Don`t forget about the ice cream! Nocciola is the local flavour. Goes well with pistachio (my personal favourite). Divine!
We decided to return through San Fruttuoso on foot, an old abbey used now only as a beach during the day. At 18.00 everybody left with the last boat (and so did we, as the trail is far more difficult and the thought of climbing again Mount Portofino was no longer appealing).
Portofino, part 2
On our last day on the coast we had to see once again Portofino. This time we took the bus to Santa Margherita Ligure, a beautiful resort in Tigullio Gulf. You can take the bus all the way to Portofino from here, but the walk along the coast is too good to be missed and it takes less than an hour if you don`t stop to take a bath on the way (almost impossible as you go by small deserted beaches).
How can you say no to this?
I already know what I want to do in Portofino: eat at L`isolotto, get some souvenirs, have one last nocciola and pistachio ice cream, try to memorize the exact place of the boats in the marina and take it with me as a mental picture.
Because even if you don`t find your love here, Portofino is hard to leave…
AliTravelling 